The flaring die can be used in a vice, an arbor press a hydraulic press or even a largish C-clamp.Īfter flaring the larger holes, I realized the screws that secure the bracket to the rear fender would interfere with the license plate lying flat on the bracket. I've flared both mild steel and aluminum, perhaps 100 holes and it shows no wear. It's made from 4140 steel, and is not heat treated. It's designed for 3/4" holes, though it may work on other sizes. You can deburr the backside of the hole (which almost always has a gnarly burr) with the same bit, just go slow.ĭepending on who you ask, these dies are called either dimple dies or flaring dies. Plus, they have the added benefit of putting a sweet chamfer on the hole. They are much safer, especially when drilling larger holes, as they have less propensity to grab and spin the part you're working on. When drilling a hole in sheet metal greater than ø1/4", I prefer to use a step-bit, or as my friend Conor calls them, a "christmas-tree-bit". After I was pleased with the sketch, I measured the holes accurately, and drilled the holes. I also roughly sketched where the mounting holes for the bracket would go, and where the lightening (Speed®) holes would go. Then, I traced the holes using a Sharpie®. I cut the sheet steel slightly wider than the license plate, and the same height. Nevertheless, it's plenty sturdy for a license plate. Though I ended up folding the short edges, in retrospect, it would have been better to fold the long edges. I used a bit of 16 gauge I had lying around. I knew I wanted something simple, stylish and lightweight. I didn't want to spend much in terms of time, effort of cash.
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